An Extremely Rare And Impressive Art Deco Diamond Necklace, by Bulgari,
Lot 621
An Extremely Rare And Impressive Art Deco Diamond Necklace,
by Bulgari, Circa 1935
Sold for HK$ 6,280,000 (US$ 803,878) inc. premium

Lot Details
An Extremely Rare And Impressive Art Deco Diamond Necklace, by Bulgari,
An Extremely Rare And Impressive Art Deco Diamond Necklace, by Bulgari, Circa 1935
Set with fifteen cushion-shaped diamonds graduating in size to the front, alternating with smaller, similarly cut diamond terminals on baguette-cut diamond batons, accented and spaced by brilliant-cut diamonds, diamonds approximately 88.00 carats total, signed Bulgari, length 38.3cm

Footnotes

  • 鑽石項鏈,寶格麗,約1935年代
    鑽石共重約88.00克拉,長度38.3厘米

    Bulgari
    Luxury Italian jeweller Bulgari is synonymous with bold and sumptuous jewels masterfully set with dazzling gemstones in a variety of precious metals. Indeed, in Rome of the 1950s and 60s, the glamorous age of La Dolce Vita, Bulgari was the go-to jeweller for visiting fashionable society and celebrity royalty. Richard Burton said of his wife, the great actress Elizabeth Taylor: "The only Italian word she knows is Bulgari."

    Bulgari was founded in the late 19th century by a Greek émigré, Sotirio Bulgari, initially as a purveyor of silver and traditional gold jewellery in archaeological revival style. By the 1920s the focus was firmly on producing superior jewels that were influenced in design and quality craftsmanship by the great French jewellery houses, Paris being the pivot of the jewellery world.

    During the 1930s, Bulgari embraced the trend towards "white" jewellery whereby coloured gems were rejected in favour of colourless diamond jewels set in platinum. During this period, fashionable collar necklaces, such as this, were formed of repeating geometric motifs offset with white diamonds of different cuts. It is interesting to note that what set Bulgari's diamond necklaces apart from their Parisian counterparts was how they were punctuated by large diamonds. The collar necklace offered here is a rare example from Bulgari's period of Art Deco production.

    See Amanda Triossi & Daniela Mascetti, "Bulgari", Electa, Milan, 2007, pp 69-79 for further information and plates 103, 104 and 105 for examples of 1930s Bulgari necklaces with large brilliant-cut diamond accents.

    寶格麗
    意大利奢侈品珠寶商寶格麗是設計大膽、奢華珠寶的代名詞,善於將耀眼的寶石巧妙地鑲嵌於各種貴金屬上。在1950和1960年代的羅馬,被稱為"甜蜜生活"的輝煌時期,寶格麗是上流社會和名人皇室必然會來光顧的珠寶店。理查德 • 伯頓說他的妻子——偉大的女演員伊麗莎白 • 泰勒,"她懂得的唯一意大利詞語只有寶格麗。"

    寶格麗由希臘移民Sotirio Bulgari創立於19世紀晚期,起初作為供應商,提供考古復興風格的銀飾和傳統黃金珠寶。到20世紀20年代,重點集中於製作頂級珠寶,其設計和精緻工藝受到了法國著名珠寶品牌的影響,此時巴黎正是珠寶世界的先驅。

    在上世紀30年代,寶格麗迎合"白色"珠寶的時尚趨勢,放棄使用彩色寶石而青睞用鉑金鑲嵌無色鑽石。在這個時期,時尚的項鏈由各種切工的白色鑽石鑲嵌,形成重複的對稱性圖案。值得注意的是,寶格麗在鑽石項鏈的設計上,跟巴黎珠寶商有所不同的是她會選用大顆鑽石,是次拍賣呈獻的項鏈就是寶格麗在裝飾藝術時期的珍罕代表作。

    更多信息詳見Amanda Triossi & Daniela Mascetti, "寶格麗",Electa,米蘭, 2007, 69-79頁。
    更多1930年代寶格麗使用大顆圓鑽的鑽石項鏈作品可參考圖103,104,及105。

    The Art Deco Period
    The decades between World War One and World War Two known as "Roaring Twenties" and the "Opulent Thirties" collectively make up the effervescent, the glamorous, the luxurious and the ultra-modern Art Deco period. This was an era of rapid industrialisation heralding huge social change and a new and influential style in the visual and applied arts. Artists and jewellers borrowed liberally from other cultures in their design repertoire; motifs from Egyptian, Assyrian, Persian, Indian, Islamic, Japanese, Greek and Chinese civilisations were all thrown into the melting pot. Women, freed from previous rigid social convention, abandoned the corset, cut their hair, applied heavy make-up, wore shorter flimsier skirts and covered themselves in "daring" jewels of clean, geometric lines and in dazzling colour combinations. Brooches and double-clips were worn in abundance and in imaginative ways; pinned to hats, the shoulder, hips, waist and small of the back, sautoirs filled the gaps created by backless dresses and plunging necklines and "bracelets by the armful" was the rule.

    裝飾藝術時期
    在第一次及第二次世界大戰之間,被稱為"咆哮的二十年代" 和"華麗的三十年代"組成了普世歡騰,迷人,奢華和超現代的裝飾藝術時期。這是一個快速工業化的時期,社會產生了巨大的變化,一股全新及有影響力的風格帶動了視覺和應用藝術。藝術家和珠寶商在他們的設計主题中自由地採用來自埃及,亞述,波斯,印度,伊斯蘭,日本,希臘及中國文明,把所有都匯集於文化大熔爐中。
    女仕們從以前墨守成規的社會制度中解脫出來,拋棄了緊身胸衣,剪短秀髮,開始濃妝豔抹,穿著更短及單薄的裙子,用清晰、對稱線條和炫目色彩組合的"大膽"珠寶來裝飾自己。別針和雙别針非常流行,更以豐富想像力的方式佩戴;用在帽子,肩膀,臀部,腰部和後背上,長項鏈配撘露背禮服和低胸領口,而把手鏈配載在臂上是當時絕對的流行教條。
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